Kegland Oxebar corny kegs 20L/5.2gal

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Product of the year at that price. If they can hold the price down below a third of a new stainless corny, I predict they don't be able to keep up with demand.

As far as the krausen ring goes, I have never seen one that a 24or 36-hour soak with oxyclean free and a drop of dawn won't completely remove. I do back to back batches in my fermzilla without cleaning in-between and I still never scrub. Before that it was a modified vittles vault. Years ago it was better bottles. I have never scrubbed plastic. (too lazy anyway)
 
they already emptied there east coast pennsylvania warehouse last week now you have to wait for them to come from california if you live on the right side of the country (sorry couldnt resist) .

before the oxebar 4 liter was available in the states they sold out of them very quickly in australia. and there was a long wait on them for back order.

the 4 is better then the 8 and this is hands down a better quality product than the 8 . this will sell out fast.

see through , light weight , versatile, great value - game changing ultimate keg. IMO

version 2.0 needs to be a tiny bit squatter to fit in peoples already built kegerators and have a wider neck like a king keg chubby (are you listening kegland)
so you can get your hand in there (more for piece of mind than necessity prolly)


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your hot oxy with dawn soak is very reassuring thanks.
 
they already emptied there east coast pennsylvania warehouse last week now you have to wait for them to come from california
And no longer on sale.
version 2.0 needs to be a tiny bit squatter to fit in peoples already built kegerators and have a wider neck like a king keg chubby
A widerr neck would be nice, but I'm not sure about making them squatter - it's already the same diameter as a sixtel; making them much wider could cause more problems than making them shorter would solve.
 
Looks like a v2.0 design would be useful after some feedback. I would say drop the stacking approach. Imho only breweries stack kegs. We are more concerned with size, shape, what they fit into and amount of clutter.
 
I like the trend! Can't argue with the Chubby Apollo. I did not see a hop bong style attachment for the Apollo. Maybe they have a separate lid. My want of a dedicated dry hop keg setup is open for all possibilities. The cost of a sixtel setup is looking like $30 for the used keg, $170 for the post attachment, hop bong, butterfly valve & ferule, and ~$200 for welding. So around $400+ which is plenty of room for an Apollo type product to swoop in and be just as good as the tank-build stainless.

It is getting kind of pricey just to dry hop with style!
 
I like the trend! Can't argue with the Chubby Apollo. I did not see a hop bong style attachment for the Apollo. Maybe they have a separate lid. My want of a dedicated dry hop keg setup is open for all possibilities. The cost of a sixtel setup is looking like $30 for the used keg, $170 for the post attachment, hop bong, butterfly valve & ferule, and ~$200 for welding. So around $400+ which is plenty of room for an Apollo type product to swoop in and be just as good as the tank-build stainless.

It is getting kind of pricey just to dry hop with style!
Would this be an option ? :
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stainless-steel-tc-tee-2f-ss-tc-tee-2f-tc-tee-fitting-500x500-278779070.jpg

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https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hopbongkit2.htm
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https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sankeball.htm
:mug:
 
That is the main idea + a butterfly valve. I see where you are going to be able to avoid welding anything. But, this thing has to be able to fit in my wine fridge which has 27" vertical space. So a sixtel + butterfly valve & cap would allow me to put it in the fridge. When I wanted to add hops or yeast etc.... I could take it out, add the hop bong, use it and take it back off once the butterfly valve is closed again.
 
That is the main idea + a butterfly valve. I see where you are going to be able to avoid welding anything. But, this thing has to be able to fit in my wine fridge which has 27" vertical space. So a sixtel + butterfly valve & cap would allow me to put it in the fridge. When I wanted to add hops or yeast etc.... I could take it out, add the hop bong, use it and take it back off once the butterfly valve is closed again.
Every once in a while a post will stick in my brain and I'll start assembling things to see if they'd work...While it didn't quite work this time, maybe this'll be some fuel for thought or something onother reader might find useful;
My first thought was actually "This is a job for my Fermhead!" ( https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-fit-it-to-fermonster-sankey-whatever.704064/ ) combined with a TC/NPT part I bought on ebay from a still dealer https://www.ebay.com/itm/2842377328...H0Jqrnq8B7lBEibcgyYn8oRy7lkQ|tkp:BFBM5oWKxvpj
Here's what I came up with:
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Unfortunately it comes in at a bit under 6".....any way you can find another 3" in your fridge?
Sorry I couldn't solve this but maybe it'll be useful to someone.
Just also wondering though if anyone's tried fitting a Fermzilla lid in a Keg King unit?
 

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Pretty cool setup you came up with! Thanks for the input. My current thinking is to use a sixtel, mount the butterfly valve on the native 2" opening and have my welder guy weld some threaded keg posts on the open areas for the gas, liquid and a PRV. It is that or weld a 2" ferule on and buy a 3-way keg post adapter. While I would be open to a plastic keg like the Oxebar or Apollo, it does not seem like an option at this point.
 
Pretty cool setup you came up with! Thanks for the input. My current thinking is to use a sixtel, mount the butterfly valve on the native 2" opening and have my welder guy weld some threaded keg posts on the open areas for the gas, liquid and a PRV. It is that or weld a 2" ferule on and buy a 3-way keg post adapter. While I would be open to a plastic keg like the Oxebar or Apollo, it does not seem like an option at this point.
Is horizontal space an issue? ..There's always the squat 1/4 keg;
kegsizes2.jpg
 
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